Steamy hotel rooms, tasty fillets of Ikan Bakar (grilled fish), endless streams of kids splashing in muddy monsoonal waters, and the ever increasing echo of 'Hello Mister' from paddy fields and shady reed huts at the roadside. At one point we manage to reverse the natural tendency to get annoyed and bored by the 'Hello Mister' torrent - when we conceive the H.M. game. Essentially we try to count the number of times the afore mentioned phrase is screamed out to us as we pedal through villages and small fishing communities. Suffice to say we can only keep our count accurate for a spell of 20 minutes. During which time we have easily surpassed our century. Considering that we have been in Indonesia at the time of writing for exactly 90 days, and we're usually on the road for around 8 hours per day; by my very rough reckoning that makes something like two hundred thousand shouts of 'Hello Mister' - that's why its now indelibly printed on each of our minds.

At the Eastern end of Sumbawa we make our final pedal up and over a 400 metre pass before diving down into Sape - the tiny dusty and rather shambolic port that connects the Eastern portion of Nusa Tengarra (the island string we have been following) into the developed hub of Indonesia (Java and Bali). As the swansong to our truly Human Powered voyage, Andrew and I have decided to make an unsupported Sea Kayak crossing to the island of Komodo; famed for being the home to the World's largest lizards. We push off towards our first night adrift from civilisation and a shiver runs through our bodies. We're entering the unknown - and with the thought of 15 knot currents, frothing tidal races, whirlpools and about two thousand 100 kilo dragons roaming wild on the virtually unpopulated islands - this is a fitting adventure to cap our time under purely our own steam. I don't have the time now to give the full incredible details of this stretch of the journey - but suffice to say - even after some 14 months on the road and having traveled some of the most beautiful landscapes the world has to offer - we're both totally blown away by the raw natural beauty that Indonesia's premier National Park has to offer. Rolling green hills plunge by way of steep sided cliffs into the foaming waters. We camp wild amongst some of the most beautiful beaches surely anywhere in the world. Crystal clear waters float us gloriously along our way. And despite the best efforts of everyone to convince us that we're sure to be eaten alive - we escape the clutches of the mighty dragons. Although we do get pretty close to a couple of monsters.

After a arm aching 2 and a half day paddle to reach the village of Kampung Komodo - we strike out on our last day's journey. We steel ourselves for a final push and make a 45 kilometre marathon into Labuan Bajo the entry point into Flores - the island of Flowers. Behind us the sun shines brightly through the late afternoon rain - ahead we can only see dark rain clouds. The end of our journey by Human Power is upon us.