Onwards
from Barkly
towards the Flood


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When we wake from a deep and reinvigorating sleep we resolve not to
repeat our night riding bonanza. With one hundred and forty now to our
next stop at Soudan Cattle Station, we plan for an early morning start
and to make our arrival there by the middle of the next day. In the
meanwhile we have a day and a half of recuperation. Here at the isolated
roadside Homestead we find ourselves amongst Road Train drivers and
tourists caught by the flood waters which lie still another two hundred
and sixty k's away. The drivers sup on Castlemain stubbies in the early
afternoon, clustering around the map on the wall and speculating on
alternative routes. People have been stuck here already for up to a
week, and are getting restless. Not for the last time we feel a little
guilty for being able to sail past the motorised vehicles as they're
held up helplessly.
Shortly before five and we're riding off, refreshed, with renewed
energy, and ready once again to take up battle with the road. The first
sign of life below the horizon comes soon as light approaches. The sky
becomes a beautiful pallette of changing and blending colours, the
yellow at the horizon shades upwards perfectly through light blue and
into the blackness of night up overhead where the stars are being put
out one by one as the light grows. The distinctive trees of the Outback
are silhouetted by the spectacular rainbow lightshow and we behold the
scene with wonder. Regular stops to snap a few pictures interrupt our
riding but nevertheless we've made an impressive start to our day by the
time we pause at a picnic site in the shadow of a huge cranking
windmill. Originally used for pulling water from boreholes, they now
make for about the only exciting sight along the route that we follow.
We laugh and joke as we enjoy the relaxed temperatures and mozzie-free
stop.
Out on the road we are treated to our first sighting of the Outback's
biggest mammal. A Big Red Kangaroo bounds out from the bush on to the
road, and along a few hundred metres. As we ride behind, it suddenly
pulls up to look around and check out his pursuers. Unsure of quite what
to do at this point we continue towards him. His ears twitch and rotate,
their big cup like shape picking up distant noises from well off the
road. Just as we begin to get dangerously close, he winds up, and bounds
off down the road, bouncing comically on and off the road in such an
unpredictable manner. Its not hard to see why there are so many
accidents involving these crazy animals. We laugh out loud at the
springy creature as it hops off as high speed with perfect balance from
its long curved tail. One couldn't design a more outlandish creature if
one tried - surely!
We cross our first flood waters as we approach Soudan Cattle station.
We don't have too much to worry about. Our feet are just about submerged
at the bottom of their travel, but with little movement in the water we
are able to pedal through easily. Having met one of the Police Officers
out on the road, we have been told that our stop for the night is just
past the flood. The strange thing is that out here we find ourselves in
the middle of a huge grassy plain without end, and without any buildings
in sight. This is another example of the Australian phenomenon of
distance. Whilst in England we might say that just after the flood might
mean a hundred metres, or even up to a kilometre, here it turns out to
be another ten kilometres. Of course when there are distances of over a
hundred k's between landmarks or buildings, its easy to see how
distances become blurred. Nevertheless another ten k's at the end of the
day is a hard slog for us.
Clayton the farm overseer welcomes us in to the farm, and shows us to
our rooms for the night. We're staying in the accommodation usually
reserved for seasonal labour, and it's a great place for a night's
sleep, complete with cooking facilities and a/c in the rooms. We're all
set for the night.
Our next two days rides are shorter and give us the opportunity to
recuperate a little. We easily reach the Police Station at Avon Downs.
'B-J' and Chris, his assistant, regale us with amusing tales of life as
an Outback Policeman, and they also look after us fantastically well in
the Visiting Officers Quarters. We fill them in with some of the missing
details on the expedition and we make our arrangements for tomorrow when
we shall come up against the infamous Georgina River that has halted all
road traffic from Queensland to The Northern Territories for over a week
now.
We ride over the border, and take the obligatory snap of us entering
a new province. In times of the British Empire, each one of Australia’s
separate states functioned as an entirely different country under
British rule. Of course those days are long past, but still a well
defined identity and pride exists within each state. Crossing from 'The
Territory' into 'The Sunshine State' is akin to changing countries, and
certainly we have ridden far enough to have crossed a whole country
since we left Darwin. Over the border and after not too long, as we had
been warned, the wide graded asphalt road narrows sharply into a red
sand fringed desert back road. To think that this is one of two main
arteries that connects Darwin and the NT, to the rest of Australia, it's
quite amazing. Just a few kilometres more and we crest a hill and can
pick out the buildings of Cammooweal. A few moments later and we can see
the queue of traffic backed up along the road. There's more traffic here
than we have seen since leaving Darwin. The people here have been camped
out for days, and the area looks something like a refugee camp. Tempers
are a little frayed and the homeless population are beginning to despair
at the situation that confronts them. The women take shelter in their
vehicles whilst quite a few of the menfolk drown their sorrows on the
obligatory small bottles of VB or Castlemain. A couple of guys make
their way over and start to give us the full run down on the scandalous
neglect of Queensland's rural roads that has led to these innocent
people being stranded in the outback at the festive season. We try to be
as diplomatic as we can as our bicycles are loaded into the Police Boat
that whizzes them across for us. Of course we feel a deep sympathy for
the individuals out here, but on the other hand, it's a triumph for our
'Human Powered' mode of transport, being able to travel where cars and
lorries are stopped in their tracks!
Later in the afternoon, the flood waters have subsided further and
Andrew and I are able to make the crossing on foot, wading through the
river. Having made the whole journey form London except the infamous
crossing from Indonesia without powered transport, we are glad to be
able to complete this stretch. The water sluices around us and does its
best to carry us away, but we take slow and deliberate steps and make
our crossing safely in the late afternoon sun.
Here in Camooweal we chance upon a couple of Brisbane news reporters
covering the flooding, who as a side article agree to running a piece on
the expedition. Chris, is a laid back beer drinker, who writes the
stories. Well before even meeting us, he has selected the angle for his
piece; 'Only The Stupid Pommies, would be out here cycling in the Wet
Season'. Nathan on the other hand is an energetic, attention to detail
photographer who eagerly explains the secrets of his trade - and of his
impressive digital, mega-zoom, unfeasibly expensive camera. As night
falls and we get ready for our well deserved sleep, Nathan has other
ideas. He drags us out into the biting swarms of flies, mocking up a New
Year's Eve celebration. The four of us wonder whether he's for real as
he asks us to scream, shout, pop our streamers, blow our Christmas
hooters and shake and spray our beer cans around all at the same time
and whilst being eaten by swarms of flies. At just after ten we retreat
to our room with just five hours until we shall have to be up again and
back out on the road.
The following morning at three a.m. Nathan is not our best friend.
Bleary eyed, crotchety and not pleased at the prospect of what lies
ahead, we stumble around getting ready for the road. The flies are still
out, and still biting. In our haste to get underway and avoid the tiny
enemy, we don't secure our panniers or water bottles properly. On the
road Rich loses one bottle, Tim's rear left pannier flies off into a
puddle and a water container hits the ground in the darkness with a
depressing thud. We're all ready for a proper rest. The last four days
have pushed us to the limit. Our final day across the Barkly however,
will be another hundred and ninety, and so we face up to our toughest
challenge yet.
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