19th July 2000
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24th July 2000

Day 302
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Day 307

The Thai Traffic Police

In the midday heat of our first riding day out of Chumphon we are climbing a surprisingly challenging incline - and we are both sweating like a pair of prize beetroot. We notice a cluster of Thai highway police as we ride out the gradient of the hill and begin to pick up speed once again. A smiling pair of heavily darkened 'Cop-style' sunglasses waves us off the highway and into the admin desk at the roadside. We wonder how on earth we can be guilty of any motoring offence. Especially when the last offence I committed - when I was riding the wrong way up a street - and on that occasion I was generously instructed by the Policeman to 'take care' as I headed around a blind corner. So Dean and I are somewhat concerned and confused. As we ease to a halt, another officer in an exceedingly smart suit adorned with shiny stars and medals welcomes us in - clearly amazed to see cyclists struggling against the midday heat. He turns, heads for a guy sitting beneath a parasol, says a couple of words in Thai, before coming back to us. In each hand he is holding an ice cream - and he hands them over saying 'Welcome toThailand, from the Highway Police'. We're gobsmacked. The 4 guys make a huge fuss of us- showing us a cool spot in the shade of a tree - and they ply us with cool bottles of water. We put our hands together before leaving in the traditional Thai gesture of the 'Wai' - and wonder how often this might happen in England?

Restaurant - or Thai Hospitality?

One day we have ridden slightly too far in our morning session and find that we are ravenously searching for somewhere to feed. Off the main road the supply of roadside food stops is less abundant. As we pedal we look longingly at people eating in their houses - our stomachs gurgling and our legs growing tired. Finally, against a stiff breeze we pull into a small village and begin to look around for food. Our eyes, well trained to the search for sustenance scan the village and at the first pass turn up nothing. On closer inspection we find a gathering of brightly coloured plastic chairs, and make our way in - confidently taking a seat and requesting something to drink and 2 portions of fried rice. The assembled company gives us some rather strange looks - but of course this is nothing out of the ordinary - in our Saracen strip we of course look VERY out of place. An old woman struggles up from her weaving work in the corner and dodders across in our direction; managing a wrinkly smile and a creaky but respectful Thai greeting. A younger man - probably a couple of years younger than Dean and I proudly struts around the shaded area in which we are sitting - bouncing his recently born baby boy. The baby gurgles and laughs; a fine healthy baby, in good spirits too; we wave to him and the question comes back to us "Wife? Wife?" - enquiring whether Dean and I are married. In a rapid fire follow up, a chirpy and inquisitive middle aged woman asks Dean "You Baby? You Baby?". By now all eyes are directed towards the two Westerners in strange blue lycra.Furrows of non-comprehension spread across the faces as we explain that we actually have "No Baby!" We are surrounded by thickset wooden pillars where we sit, upon which rests the main part of the building; presumably the living area for a family. As we tuck into our food the gathering disperses a little and we are left to devour our tasty rice in peace. The young man by now is playing with his elder daughter - chasing her around the smooth cool concrete. The last grains of rice are polished off and we begin to gather ourselves for another 20k's to our nightstop. We replace our hats and glasses to a few sniggers, and as is customary in most eating establishments we request the bill. "Tao Lai?" one of the few Thai expressions that we can make understood without much difficulty is repeated back to us - complemented with smiling faces - and a shaking of heads.

Dean and I look at each other, we look around, and at the woman who has just served us our wonderful lunch. We see the elderly mother in the corner weaving, the son and the grandson playing contentedly, the wife and her friend who has come round for a chat smiling at us, and the granddaughter busying herself with her toys. We suddenly feel very silly. There are no soft drinks, no cash box, no other customers, and this is no restaurant. We have just walked directly into someone's house and demanded lunch. How Thai customs differ so deeply from England!

Snakes In the Grass (and on the road)

Our final approach to Surat Thani is from a small back road that leads from the Buddhist Temple village of ChaiYa. All along our route from way back in Eastern Europe we have noticed peaks and even higher peaks in the numbers, and the horrific injuries to wildlife squashed and maimed on the roads of the World. Ever since Southern China we have been noticing some more exotic species joining the slaughter - including frogs, lizards, birds, monkeys, and snakes. This morning it seems to be a particularly bad morning for the snakes. Already within just the space of our first few kilometres there have been a few casualties. As Dean and I ride the snakes are in our thoughts, and then I cry out to Dean excitedly repeating myself 'Snake! Snake!'. We watch in horror as a grey scaly and frighteningly fast 3 to 4 foot serpent sidewinds its way across and into the bushes. It could so easily have just slithered directly into our spokes - what a pleasant thought! Our fears are compounded through the morning as we see well over 30 squashed serpents on the tarmac - ranging from tiddlers not much bigger than slow worms - right through to the spine tingling distinctive profile of a Cobra - with its wide flattened head and dark powerful body. Now that doesn't even bear thinking about!

Koh Samui - out on to the Sea

As Nicks final destination to round off his journey we have chosen the tropical island of Koh Samui off the Eastern Coast of Thailand. His journey will now forever more live as 'From Kathmandu to Koh Samui'. In fact we have clocked up the 'K's in more than one way. Our 7000km since Kathmandu has taken us over the Karo La and Kamba La Passes and to Kyanijin Gompa. To Kunming in the South of China, and to Khon Khaen in the North of Thailand. In Bangkok we of course made our pilgrimage to Khaosan Road, and now to the sun drenched island of Koh Samui.

After our significant trials in the snowy depths of Winter in Tibet. The journey to the Island is almost too much to believe. The turquoise waters reflect the suns rays as the evening draws on. Despite it being pitch black by the time we arrive at Sunrise Village, we are drawn to the water, and we all plunge into the dark waters. What a trip for Nick - and what a place to celebrate the end of the road!

We explore the island the next day - and find a place magical in every way. The guidebooks may put backpackers off by threats of hoards of tourists. And true enough, it is rather as if two almost opposite worlds had collided when we marched off the ferry with white faces carrying suitcases, and we saw the endless numbers of high class resort hotels on the island. The atmosphere and beauty of the island are well intact however. We swim on soft sandy beaches, and are amazed by the warm clear water that we dive into. The bright blue skies look down on us, and the sun streams through the leafy palms. We snorkel in the rockier waters on the south coast and marvel at the brightly coloured fish that swim with us just metres away from the shore.

Nickers Send Off.

Finally, as they say, all good things come to an end. Nickers journey sadly, and our brief stay on Ko Samui are no different. We wave good bye to Nickers on the pier. We all hug him and wish him safely on his return journey. I can't properly express to Nick how I'm feeling - I'm rather choked up. Its as if a vital part of the team's body has just been removed. We've been traveling together through some of the harshest terrains accessible to the long distance cyclists. We've lived an adventure that we had been planning for such a long time. That I had rung Nick about so many times back in England. That we had had so much fun planning and so many good nights talking about back in English Pubs. And now....its done...and Nick will begin his opportunity for retrospection. Time to unravel what has happened. Time to understand and believe that we made it this far. Good luck Nick - and thanks from all of us for everything!   (see photo)