|
Khaosan Road, Bangkok must surely rank as the holy grail, centre of
gravity, Mecca, and generally most densely concentrated group of
backpackers we have ever seen. It offered us Western food, cheap
accommodation and the sight of more white faces than at any time since
our departure from Europe. We stay here just long enough to get our act
together before departing seawards.
Dean joins the peleton as we ride out of Bangkok - and her enthusiasm
is infectious. She chatters at each one of us telling us about her
particularly special Tesco's Mountain bike. Unfortunately the brakes
squeal most annoyingly sending shudders through anyone within a hundred
metre radius. The traffic is just as dangerous on our way out of the
city as our way in - and so we form a 'Human Power' shield around Dean
as we ride - making sure she doesn't have traffic zooming and swerving
around her.
Bangkok city doesn't seem to extend as far Westwards as it did on our
ride in - and so it takes us little longer than a few hours to begin
clearing the city. We follow the main road at first Westwards before we
reach Ratchaburi - around 100k's from the city centre. Here we take a
sharp turn and I watch excitedly as my Handlebar mounted compass moves
rapidly round from 'W' to 'S' - this is it - we're on our way towards
Singapore - or more precisely Melaka - just 200k's up the west coast
from S'pore - where we shall be meeting Gary Quinn and Rich Scriven -
ready to take to the seas in our almost forgotten Sea Kayaks - HPRTW1
& HPRTW2!
Day 2 out of Bangkok - is once again swelteringly hot. Misleadingly
however the skies are dark and overcast. The sun's radiation however
burns through fiercely - and we are all burned - taken by surprise. The
weather here at the moment is surprisingly uncomfortable - temperatures
around a modest 32 degrees - but the humidity fluctuates around 95
percent. Its so steamy that the lense of one's camera can steam up
before the picture has been taken. Sweating has become the norm - and
fluid loss our biggest enemy. For Andrew, Nick, Tim and I this is
something we have had some time to acclimatise to - but for Dean it
comes as a nasty shock. As we ride into Phetchaburi Dean is complaining
of a headache and nausea. Not long after collapsing into bed after our
89km day she is dashing toilet bound to be sick - she's in a bad way.
Gladly this lifts overnight - and although still feeling groggy the next
day we help her on to Cha Am.
Cha Am is our first real sighting of the sea since The Black Sea in
Turkey. Andrew and I both instinctively strip off and rush in -
expecting it to be cool and refreshing - the warm water that welcomes us
in is quite a shock - I've never swam anywhere other than the English
Channel, The Med and the Atlantic - and the Gulf of Thailand is degrees
warmer than any of those - mmmm!
It takes several days to adjust to seeing the sea. After nearly 8
months without the sea its a real experience. The perfectly flat
horizon. The gentle shading of blue. The sky meeting the water oh so far
away. And the thought that this is the South China Sea. We reach Hua Hin as a team of 5 cyclists - to find another Seaside
resort for Bangkok weekenders. No harm in that - but some of the other
sights are a bit less charming. Billy Bunter's English Pub, German
Brauhof, and stream's of Union Jacks and German Red, Yellow and Black. I
shan't say anymore - but its not quite my scene. We stay the night and
then head out early the next day.
That night in Hua Hin Nickers sits us all down and with an unusually
serious look on his face explains that he will be arranging a flight
back to England earlier than expected. Nickers had been intending to
join us down as far as Melaka - to the meet up with the Sea Kayaks, Gary
and Rich. His impending Masters Course, and now the flat road that
brings us somewhat monotonously down Thailand, I think are key factors
in his decision to head back now. It certainly will be like losing a
vital piece of the team's anatomy. Nick, although the last member of the
4 person cycling team to join has been fundamental to the team's
success. He promised us all in Tibet that he would save his best joke
for a very tough day - when times were hard. I'm unsure whether Nick
never found the going very hard, or maybe whether he clean
forgot.......but we're all looking forward to getting into a good scrape
some time in the future - when Nick can bring out his best joke!!!!
Dean and I cycle on our own out of Hua Hin - and arrange to meet the
others for Nick's leaving do down in Surat Thani.
We've covered some 300km since then with Dean notching up 2 record
days of 94km and 93km in succession. Now don't for one moment imagine
that this was easy. And don't imagine Dean didn't complain about it. My
ears have been sore on more than one occasion - but we are still cycling
- and today riding into Chumphon Dean even was heard to say 'These hills
things are actually quite alright'. Its certainly a refreshing change
for me - and its great for Dean and I to spend time together.
As we grow distant from the metropolis of Bangkok the waters that
from time to time lap at our rims grow cleaner. We watch fishermen
wading shoulder deep in the warm waters trawling with huge manhandled
nets. The road is a friendly one. The reaction Dean gets from the locals
is altogether different from that of 4 overgrown boys riding through. We
often see people taking a second look, sniggering or laughing openly.
Its great fun though. Malaysia now beckons us - a couple of weeks away.
|