to

 Pokhara

Whilst in the Park we enjoyed a wonderful if rather chilly early morning elephant safari through the misty and dewy grasslands where the Rhinos live. We were weed upon by a practical joker monkey - from a great height I might add - a funny sight to see a stream of yellow drops coming straight for you from above - with the monkey seeming to laugh and delight in his mischief! We also spent an afternoon walking wild through the jungle with just a guide and his trusty stick for protection. We were treated to a feast of fauna. Most spectacular were the basking Crocodiles outstretched in the afternoon warmth on the banks of a small stream. We precariously observed them from the opposite bank with just a few blades of grass separating us from them - WOW. In the deeper undergrowth, whilst we stalked quietly along, with Dean as our leader, we came face to face with a mother sloth bear - at no more than 15 paces - in broad daylight. Dean barely had time to recognise it and its long sharp claws, before she was off at a pace - blundering off into the undergrowth. Fortunately the Sloth Bear did likewise and we didn't see it again, but Dean from this point onwards took a safer middle position in the party. Our crowning moment - not long before dusk, on our return journey came when we spied through the tree infested jungle floor, a huge dark black shape looming. As we crept closer we were able to discern the horn, and the huge bulk of a resting Rhino - no more than 20 metres away. We knew not whether to run or gape in awe. We did however locate the nearest big tree in case of the possibility of a charge.

Back in Suraha we chattered excitedly about what an amazing place this is - and how exciting to be able to walk wild with the animals. The following day Andrew and I made our way sluggishly back out on to the road. We are in a kind of limbo here at this point between the expedition and a holiday - and it relaxes us, but we still have some hard riding ahead before the real rest begins in Kathmandu. The track back to the main road is only about 6km, but somehow in our laxadazical state we manage to take the wrong track away from Sauraha - and end up taking a detour of some 25km extra. This does nothing to enhance my mood, and I seeth as we ride. When we finally arrive back on the road we make out with an annoyed determination - and we very quickly arrive in Naranghat once again - despite a headwind. Naranghat is still the essence of the flood plain called the Terai - it sums this part of Nepal up in a Nutshell - dusty, noisy and busy - a Nepalese version of India, but we are about to make an important, decisive move in terms of World Geography. Our road now turns Northwards, and within just 10km the plains are left behind. The hustle and bustle recedes, and we climb along the Trisuli River. The road snakes and bends, and we marvel at the deep green laced with white foam that burbles beneath us. The waters are charging down from the Himalayan Melt - and we feel a dramatic transition. At Mugling we are completely surrounded by the Himalayas - behind us is the small foothill range known as the Mahabarat, but in front are the high Himalayas - obscured from view by a haze for the time being - but we know very well that they're there - high and mighty! The settlements have changed also as we have climbed along the river. From the ramshackle scatter of those down on the plains, there is now a need to use the flat space by the roadside efficiently - as there is not so much of it available. The houses are neatly aligned and at times painted with beautiful colours - quite a difference. The faces are also now turning - still some Indian looks around, but many more Oriental looking Faces greet us - still smiling and still friendly. We join the main road to Pokhara - the Prithvi Highway that joins Kathamndu to Pokhara - and despite what you may hear from other travellers - the road is still very quiet and peaceful. We undulate gently and climb to Dumre for the night. Our accommodation here is simple but adequate, and we also chance upon 2 German Cyclists - a girl and boy who have journeyed from Europe too. We chatter randomly along and quite forget our dinner. What was supposed to be an early night becomes a late one. In the morning we chat again and Andrew and I don't depart until after 9, but its only 67km today - and then time for more space from the bicycles. En route to Pokhara we cross a couple of suspension bridges and follow now the Seti river. We remark at the difference between here and all the way back in Baluchistan. The water drips from every crag and crevice here - it washes across the road, it courses through the powerful mountain rivers and it runs freely from taps constantly - what a difference - Baluchistan where the desert dwellers pay 5 dollars a drum for sweet water! Pokhara arrives peacefully and we drift into Lakeside and to our hotel. We have little time to relax however. Tomorrow we shall all depart for the Ghandrung Valley and our trek up towards the Annapurnas.

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