1st July 2000
to
5th July 2000

days 285-288

The traffic has become intense, impersonal and highly dangerous. As the 4 of us ride into the hinterland of the Capital city of Thailand I have a serious discussion with myself. I feel a deep worry and fear of the traffic that we shall encounter here in Bangkok. With 4 riders the statistical likelihood of an accident is elevated - and this combined with our recent absence of incident, and the fearsome reputation of the congestion and traffic mayhem - brings thoughts flooding forth of whether it is necessary to say something. I play the thoughts round and round - obviously Andrew, Nick and Tim are all just as experienced cyclists as myself - but somehow something strange happens when cyclists find themselves amongst traffic. We seem to rise to the challenge presented by vehicular traffic - and it becomes a kind of tactical battle - us daring life and limb to outmaneuver our car bound friends. We try to show the drivers the folly of their way by weaving and swerving to speed our progress through the slow moving traffic. It only takes just a simple momentary lapse of concentration - and the fragile nature of our courage can be literally crumpled before us. The future progress of our journey hangs in the balance - one crumpling of a wheel, a broken pannier or worse still an injury to one of us would seriously affect the forwards plan - and would extend our already elastically extending schedule. I risk the wrath of the others and put forth my patronising point in the least patronising way I can - but we all need to remember the danger! Who knows how it was received - but at least we all think for just a few moments before the melee of the Bangkok mania envelops us all. Overhead expressways soar above us. The continuous stream of cars lorries and tuk-tuks roars by us. We hollar to each other just to make ourselves heard above the mad hullaballooo. Its exciting though and our anticipation reaches levels unknown for quite some time.

We feel that Thailand has a special quality - maybe that we haven't yet encountered on our trip. Clearly the trappings of a richer Western influenced lifestyle have reached this country. As mentioned before Western shops and Fast Food outlets pervade even the smaller provincial towns. The vehicles on the roads are a mixture of Japanese, Asian - but also European luxury brands - shiny swanky BMW's, fat Mercedes, and smooth powerful sports cars. The difference here though seems to be the pervading chirpiness of the people. Obviously we have conducted no thorough surveys along our route - but it had seemed up until now that there was a clear link between the friendliness of a country's people and the national wealth. Thailand somehow seems to have bucked this trend - and despite being relatively affluent and the country developing successfully - we still seem to find waves a plenty from the roadside and from the cars who pass us - people smile and laugh as we pass - and the country seems alive with a positive and generous spirit.

The influence of Bangkok extends for over a hundred kilometres outside of the city centre. Even before Surabari - our last evening stop - which is some 107km from the centre - we feel that we have entered a corridor of city activity. We barely see countryside again as we ride in and the confusion mounts as we ride in. In the city Golden Arches sprout from the ground like urban trees - KFC runs rampant and it seems barely a couple of minutes from one Starbucks to the next. The sky rail looms above us - and every couple of minutes we hear the hurried rattle of a Bangkok Metro efficiently bustling through. Somehow the city is different to our romantic preconceptions - no shanty towns or quaint side streets - although I'm sure you can find them - it's not quite what we had in mind - but still its pretty incredible. The air is heavy with moisture and just walking down the street is enough to raise a sweat. We've arrived - another great world capital - another stage of the journey complete.

Once in the city we score a great series of PR coups - with help from Dean - and her excellent work. She has arranged meetings for us with Bangkok newspapers, TV3 - The Bangkok metropolitan TV channel, and a wonderful pair of journalists from the Thai Magazine - 'Travel Round The World' - the synergy is perfect - we seem to spend 2 days solid in press calls and riding our bikes up and down. We meet Victoria from the British Embassy - who extends us the most wonderful hospitality and also offers to return a parcel for us to the UK - a huge thanks Victoria! Dean also scores the jackpot with the manager of the Novotel - when she swings 2 nights free accommodation for us in a plush 4 star hotel - in the central expat area. Tim and Andrew wow the local Irish Pub with stories of amazing cycling exploits - and are treated in return to breakfast and dinner (...oh - I almost forgot - and a few pints of Guiness!!!). Sean at The Dubliner pub Sukhumvit Road is certainly worth a visit - a real Irish Landlord - complete with Irish Hospitality! We laugh to ourselves at the amazing situation that we find - Bangkok media champing at the bit - and Novotel eager to look after us with glorious luxury accommodation - now this is the life!!! After returning slightly worse for wear after a night out - I convince Dean that it will be a good bargain if we ring home to England to speak to friends and family. Of course it isn't.......but we enjoy just a few minutes chatting and catching up - its so encouraging to hear everyone on the other end!

We sample the infamous shows of Patpong Road. The endless array of strip bars seem to be a must for any foreign visitor to Bangkok - almost like checking out the Tower of London and Buckingham Palace. Tim, Nick, and Andrew seem a little reluctant to take the plunge - but Dean can't seem to wait - 'come on you lot....lets get in there!!!!' - we don't really believe some of the things that we see in the dingy twilight of a Club that I can't bring myself to write the name of here. We come out reeling - but Dean did manage to get some live footage - look out for the film!!

We all run around crazily getting jobs done - and Dean makes preparations for her bike ride. We pick up a bike for her in Tesco's Lotus Supermarket Bangkok. Now at forty pounds - or 2400 Baht - its not quite a Saracen Expedition bike - but I feel pretty confident it will carry her down to Melaka - some 1800km distant - here's hoping. Her face as we ride through the streets of Bangkok is a picture I shan't forget in a hurry - petrified one minute and electrified the next with the pure excitement of riding through one of Asia's most exotic cities. Goodnight from Bangkok - and looking forward to the sea!