Richard's Map

From Jio we endured the most uncomfortable wet and muddy climb. We had an idea in our heads that we were to make the climb from Druktse - at 2600m up to Lao La (4330m) - in a single afternoon - and as the road, and weather turned out this was certainly not a good plan. It somehow seems strange that we are here riding almost in a similar style to how we might ride in England. We are contemplating setting out up a 4300 metre pass with the bikes heavily battered, into the freezing cold, fog and with a camp at the end of the day - we know not where! So when we arrive in the village - we hold an impromptu meeting - and decide that we can't really head over the hill.

We receive a frightening response from the villagers - they shriek and scream - running away from us in fear. Only one proud looking East Tibetan man with plaited hair and coral shell in his plait is prepared to offer us shelter. We accept with open arms and are treated to a night that we shall never forget.

The top of the pass comes easily in the brighter morning - snow falls - but only lightly and we ride easily over the top and down a very poor road to just before Markam. We camp early - and keep our heads low. Markam is the most notorious check post in East Tibet - and we risk hefty fines, being sent back to Lhasa or even a short spell in prison for daring to be here. We take no chances and are on the road - following a cold packing up - at 4am. The town is still quite bustling - even in the pitch of night - we swerve wild dogs and despite taking the wrong road once we make a successfully undetected run through the town. We celebrate once we are well out of earshot of the town!

The day is a long one - we cover some 115km - and make our way from Markam - over what we all agree was truly the most amazing descent in the whole world. The views as we descend once again into the Mekong Valley are stupendous. Yanjing is the last check post in Tibet and despite our extreme fatigue we opt to run this one in the same day. We edge through - our eyes barely open - and on out the other side - where we find no campsite. We pitch rough by the roadside - Thermarests - (kindly supplied by Taunton Leisure) are put to best use - cushioning us from the rocks in the drainage ditch by the roadside that is our bed. It matters not - we have been riding for some 20 hours.