Stories
from The Saddle
28th June 2000 - Vientiane - Laos
10 200 miles
9 months
18 countries
With Thanks to Sue, Bill, Tim and all the team at Taunton Leisure |
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Leatherman Wave Super Tool
The Leatherman Wave is a superbly crafted quality piece of equipment.
Unlike usual Swiss Army Knives it is the perfect complement to the
Cycling Tools that we carry. It has been unbeatable in a whole range of
heavy duty applications such as : Cutting Toenails, Slicing Croissants,
Spreading Jam, Sawing off the handles from toothbrushes, and opening
Efes Pilsner beer bottles - In Turkey. I have a reliable report from one
Ahmed Khan of Okara City, Highway No. 2, Punjab, Pakistan that leads me
to believe that the tool is continuing to do sterling work. He finds the
tool very useful in preparing hot curries, slicing chappattis, trimming
the hooves of his Camel 'Akbar', and also for cleaning out the spark
plugs on his spluttering auto-rickshaw. Sadly I have not seen the
Leatherman since approximately January 20th when we too by co-incidence
were passing through Okara Punjab. At this time one of two plausible
situations came to pass - either 1. The Leatherman bounced out of my
pannier while negotiating one of the more violent potholes on the main
Multan to Lahore highway. 2. A light-fingered hotel assistant stumbled
upon the aforementioned shiny and highly desirable Leatherman Tool and
decided that it would be far better employed by his own fair hand than
by an over excitable and over-tall English cyclist.
Thermarest Sleeping Mats
After experience in the Great Sandy Desert of Baluchistan (Iran and
Pakistan) of cold nights in bivvy bags, and uncomfortable disturbed
nights on the floors of Roadside restaurants - both Andrew and I
wondered about our forthcoming foray into the true wilderness of The
Land of The Snows - Tibet. When trying to put in tough days of cycling
the nighttime hours of recuperation are of paramount importance. We were
well aware that there would be many reasons that sleep might be
difficult to come by - altitude and cold being amongst the foremost in
our minds. Thermarests had always been recommended as the key to a
perfect and luxurious nights sleep in the outdoors by many
acquaintances. Andrew and I however had always felt that to sleep on an
inflatable mattress in the outdoors was something akin to cheating.
Tibet was certainly the time to investigate all legitimate means of
cheating.
The Thermarests did not disappoint any of us who used them along the
Friendship Highway and out into the barely trodden Chongzhing Highway
from Lhasa down to Kunming. The most notable application of our sleeping
mats came on the day of our dramatic departure from Tibet and out into
Yunnan. We knew that in order to safely escape the clutches of the
Chinese Authorities we would have to cross 2 checkposts under the cover
of night. Our day began at 03:00 when our watches woke us from a
comfortable nights sleep on our Thermarests. We rode through the night
and through the barking dogs and bumpy road of Markham, and on into the
sunrise. Some hundred and fifteen kilometres later we had sucessfully
negotiated the Mekong La Pass at 4330m and made undoubtedly the finest
off road descent in the World. We had cycled on a dirt road for over 20
hours and had tiptoed through the second of our dangerspots. As we rode
bleary eyed through the thick darkness we could see virtually nothing of
the road ahead - we took turns to lead - knowing that on our right hand
side was a near vertical drop into the raging Mekong River. The road was
not particularly predictable and from time to time a chunk would be
missing from the road where a landslide had reclaimed a piece of the
leveled road. At each of these occasions we would grind to a halt. At
each of these occasions I wondered whether the person leading us would
soon be too tired to notice a missing chunk of the road and ride
oblivious into the abyss. When my weary brain finally clicked that this
was a very grave situation that could easily result in catastrophe - I
suggested to the others that we really should stop at the first
opportunity.
The first opportunity didn't appear readily. We inspected ditch after
ditch and rocky stream after rocky stream - and finally in exhausted
desparation we slumped into an almost level ditch. Blatantly ignoring
every piece of advice included in the Thermrest handbook we inflated our
mats and after a distinctly suspect meal of noodles and spam we crashed
down into the gutter at the side of the dirt road. The Thermrests in the
most adverse of conditions gave us a more than tolerable night - our
first night out of Tibet into China Proper. Only the heaviest member of
our team reported a puncture from his mat in the morning. The Thermrests
are good.........but not invincible..........16 stones in a rocky ditch
could well be considered as testing this equipment to the limit!
GSI Outdoors Spoon
The list price of, I believe One English Pound, belies the true grit
of these little fellars and their outstanding worth. At every request
the GSI Outdoors Plastic spoon has responded with unparallelled
performance. Whether feeding wet through bivviers in Belgium or
troughing Chorba in Turkey, eating Honey Loops in Pakistan and Wai-Wai
Noodles in Nepal - they have been the stand out piece of equipment in my
panniers.
Sadly I must report that despite Tim, Nick and Andrew continuing to
be the proud owners of GSI's - I for my part had to lay mine to rest in
the foothills of the Eastern Himalaya in Yunnan South West China. Whilst
at a high altitude camp in temperatures of around minus 10, as the snow
pounded our tents a tragedy was being played out. Unwittingly my
favourite spoon had found its way underneath my sleeping bag and had
managed to find its way into an upright position. As I crashed back into
the tent from outside I collapsed shivering on to my sleeping bag and on
to the poor blighter. Days later I tried to glue the head back to the
handle with SuperGlue. The light had gone out though - it was too late
for GSI number 2 - I had no choice but to leave him behind. Sleep well
my trusty companion!
Taunton Leisure Promotional T-Shirts
To shoot some promotional shots for TL we had a couple of wonderful
bright green and orange T-Shirts brought out to Nepal by Nadine and her
Mum. They were taken everywhere from The Royal Chitwan National Wildlife
Park to The Annapurna Sanctuary trek, and around the most auspicious
Hindu and Buddhist Pilgrimage sites in the Kathmandu Valley. As a final
ongoing piece of publicity for Taunton Leisure in Kathmandu we donated
the two T-Shirts to two of the staff at Himalayan Mountain Bikes in
Thamel. The typical wages for a Nepali even in the lucrative tourist
industry is less than 50 English Pounds - so we felt it only right to
make a gesture of thanks. If you are headed to Kathmandu I'm sure you
will be able to see the two T-Shirts proudly walking the streets of
Thamel. Ranjan and Tillac were delighted with their presents - and I'm
sure they will be proudly sporting their new apparel until it falls off
them!
Lowe Alpine Nova Micro Camera Bag
The Lowe Camera Bag has certainly given ample protection to the most
essential accessory to the adventure traveler - my SLR. The camera is
rather like everyone elses eyes into our expedition - when I raise the
lense to snap a scene or a person at the roadside I often think of
friends or family and most often of Dean's younger brothers and sisters
who have not as yet begun their traveling careers - but who will
hopefully grow up to have adventures of their own. Without a good camera
bag I doubt my lightweight 'Appareil-Photo' would have made it over 10
000 miles of bumpy roads, through torrential rains, sandstorms, and the
frozen wastes of the Tibetan Plateau. Recently I have been lucky enough
to actually see some of the pictures from the road travelled through
Asia - and I am have been amazed to see the places that we have been. I
am relying on the pictures to relive the moments that already seem so
far away and almost in another life.
The Lowe bag is certainly in good company as it seems to be a 'de
rigeur' backpacking accessory out on the trail. I certainly feel one of
the 'In Crowd' in Paharganj Road in Delhi, on Thamel Highstreet or on
the Barkhor Circuit in Lhasa. Somehow though, I always feel a little
inadequate when from my wonderful camera bag I pull out my Minolta
bottom of the range 'wannabe' SLR with automatic features. The traveler
scene seems to be dominated by the fattest zoom lenses, Super-Duper
matrix focusing, auto-manual, aperture-this and and fish-eye that,
Canon, Zeiss, Olympus and Nikon. Sometimes you wonder how you ever
manage to get a decent photo without seventeen different lenses, three
different bodies and a handful of Tripods.............here's hoping!
LifeVenture Pack Towels
On previous expeditions and extended holidays we have used many
different sorts of Pack Towel. On several occasions there have been
different types of pack towel pitted one alongside another. From the
Speedo swimming towel that lives inside its own plastic container (Tim's
previous fave), through the original Pack Towel that has bobbled and
never quite seems to remove the water from ones body properly, the
pertex sheet that was once sold as some kind of towel - that within
seconds became completely drenched and therefore became entirely useless
(I took to India in 1990). Highest on the scale of hilarity we must
surely not forget Nick's tiny square of fabric that was burnt and
reduced to a very sorry looking rag whilst trying to dry it on a stove
in Tibet. These comparisons and the mickey taking that goes along with
the use of these various devices to try and effect a decent wash and dry
up in an outdoors setting, have collectively become known as 'The Towel
Wars'. Until very recently it was the case more or less - that each
option was more or less as useless as the next - none of them really
being able to do the job that they purported to do. All this was blown
out of the water by The Lifeventure Towel. The team can honestly report
that the towel is pleasant to use, it does actually get the user dry and
it dries out after even vigourous use really quite quickly. Tim has even
conceded that he will in future stop using Speedo Towels - that
invariably go mouldy after a period of time - in preference of
LifeVenture. Thanks TL and well done LifeVenture!
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